Picture this: the year is 1994, and you’re a European food and wine writer on a Californian press junket as a special guest of Richard Branson and Virgin Airlines. You and two buses of your peers have just finished a day of touring through the increasingly popular Napa Valley when a helicopter descends on your crew and hijacks both buses.
The only words spoken by your kidnappers? “Your palates have been ruined.”
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What?
Welcome to Gundlach Bundschu [Gun-lock Bun-shu], California’s oldest family-owned winery, where fun, good humour, and quality are central tenets of the estate.
Gundlach Bundschu Winery
Gundlach Bundschu, affectionately known as "GunBun," has been a cornerstone of California's wine industry since 1858. For more than 160 years, six generations of the Bundschu family have carried the legacy of this unique appellation, nestled at the crossroads of the Sonoma, Carneros, and Napa valleys.
The estate’s vineyard - Rhinefarm - pays homage to the family’s German roots, which are further reflected in the winery’s signature Alsatian-style Gewürztraminer (more on that below).
(I asked our host - Rob Bundschu - about the possibility of Rhinefarm once again growing Riesling grapes, given their history with Alsatian-style wines. GunBun has grown and produced Riesling in the past, but it’s been several years since their last vintage. There is a chance this grape could make a comeback in the future - and you can be sure I’ll be first in line if it does.)
In addition to award-winning wines, GunBun has built a reputation for its vibrant culture, playful antics with fellow vintners, and love of rock and roll through regular on-premise concerts.
👉🏼 The winery’s Bacchus Club, established in 1896 and thought to be the first conceptualized wine club, welcomes its members through various parties, movie nights, rock concerts, and other events throughout the year.
Back to the hijacking…
The buses were escorted to Gundlach Bundschu, where confusion and apprehension had the riders on edge. Fortunately for everyone on board, the hijacking turned out to be nothing more than one of GunBun’s elaborate pranks. The goal? Showcase that Sonoma’s vibrant atmosphere and exceptional wines could rival that of its better-known neighbour.
Legend has it that despite being greeted by a festive party scene upon arrival, there was no movement off the buses for a solid few minutes. Believing they had been genuinely kidnapped, many of the guests were too afraid to disembark until some of Branson’s team (who were in on the prank) finally coaxed them off and join in on the fun.
Branson himself later remarked that the entire thing was “a delightful surprise. I think this is definitely the highlight of the day,” noting that he particularly enjoyed the “ritualistic cleansing” performed by GunBun patrolees, who ceremoniously poured wine at the feet of their honoured guests to symbolize Sonoma’s “purity” and cast off Napa’s influence.
👉🏼 This wasn’t the only high-stakes publicity stunt GunBun has pulled off over the years; they’ve been involved in a number of good-natured pranks, including organizing the now notorious Napa Valley Wine Train heist where Sonoma vintners, dressed in masks and capes, boarded the train and poured Sonoma wines into the passengers’ glasses while urging them to throw their Napa Valley wines out the windows.
The tasting 🍷
Dry Gewürztraminer 2023 ($29)
GunBun’s Gewürztraminer was one of the original varietals planted on Rhinefarm in 1858 and produces a full-bodied, dry wine with slightly mineral notes (which I love).
On the nose you’re greeted with aromas of orange blossom, complemented by vibrant citrus notes of grapefruit and yuzu. Nutmeg, papaya, and pineapple round out the palate. GunBun notes that 2023’s consistently cooler climate created a complex, balanced, and elegant wine.
Rhinefarm Rosé of Pinot Noir 2023 ($28)
I’ll start this review by saying I’m not generally a fan of rosé - I find they’re often far too fruit forward for me. So when I tell you I purchased a bottle of this one to fly back home with me, that should tell you just how good it was.
GunBun describes its rosé as a testament to nuance and refinement, with balanced acidity and refreshing aromas of rose petals. On the palate you will find subtle grassy notes, and strawberry. This rosé is made with zero malolactic fermentation.
Zinfandel 2021 ($56)
This was another bottle that I purchased (in fact, I bought two). The estate’s 80-year-old vines produce an elegantly expressed Zinfandel and vibrant fruit and beautiful, mouthfilling structure.
The winery describes this Zin as juicy, pillowy soft, and fruit-laden, with notes of rich black currant, baking spice, and charred meat. GunBun’s Zinfandel strays away from the traditional jammy Zin (which I loved) and leans more towards a savoury delight with refreshing acidity. Look for notes of juicy blackberry and dark cherry.
💡 Zinfandel was the first post-Prohibition wine produced by Jim Bundschu back in 1976.
Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($55)
Rated 94 points from Wine Enthusiast, this was another bottle that I was oh-so tempted to purchase and bring back home. Full bodied and tannic, we found black currant, blackberries, and cocoa nibs on the palate, with a hint of graham cracker.
Vintage Reserve 2019 ($142)
Another highly rated wine, this 2019 Vintage Reserve received 95 points from Wine Enthusiast and 93 from Wine Spectator. This wine had an elegantly complex and layered nose of chocolate, violet, and graphite.
Complemented by flavours of vanilla bean, star anise, and plum, this wine was certainly a star of the show and serves as a testament to the exceptional quality wines that can be produced in the Sonoma Valley. Delicious to drink now, or age-worthy for 20+ years.
95 points, Wine Enthusiast
This powerful, intense and firmly textured wine waves the flag for great Sonoma-grown Cabernet. It wraps fine-grained tannins around just-ripe black fruit flavors and tempting oak accents of cinnamon, char and clove. Not overly ripe, the wine shows great balance and should expect a long life. Best from 2028-2038.
- Jim Gordon
93 points, Wine Spectator
Richly fruited, with a broad, caressing wave of mulberry and blackberry preserves rolling through slowly, laced with black licorice and violet notes and coated with a warm, toasty edge on the finish, where an echo of warm earth keeps this honest.
- James Molesworth
The last word
I think anyone who has worked at or visited Gundlach Bundschu would agree with me when I say that a trip to the estate is more than just a visit to a winery. It’s an all around quality experience that highlights its rich family history and roots, playful spirit, and passion for quality.
If you’re in the area, I highly recommend making the trip to the estate (and if you’re lucky enough to have Rob guide you through your tasting, tell him I said hi!).
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